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This
is a a glossary of short hairstyle terms. Comments and suggestions
are appreciated.
Please
note that different people may have different ideas about the
terms. You should always ensure that your barber understands what
you are asking for.
bang
(or bangs) - hair that is cut to hang brushed down over the forehead.
This is called a fringe in some countries.
bowl
cut - a cut that gets its name from its origins of placing
a bowl on the head and then cutting off everything that protrudes
from under the bowl. This gives hair of up to several inches in
length on top with and close cropped hair below the bowl line
and no blend (or transition) between the two lengths. The bowl
cut became popular during the Great Depression as an easy way
of cutting boy's hair. While techniques may have improved, the
cut still has the same basic characteristics of longer hair on
top and short hair below a "bowl line", which is usually
just above the ears. (Also see under cut and dipped
mushroom cut below.)
brush
cut - a longer variation of the crewcut, this style gets its
name because the hair is cut to stand up like the bristles of
a brush.
burr
cut - see induction cut below.
burr
with bumper - see horseshoe flattop below.
business
man's cut - a term that describes a short (but not extremely
short) haircut. It would generally refer to a cut that is long
enough to be either parted or brushed back. The back and sides
may be tapered or slightly longer, but cut around the ears.
butch
- a short cut in which the hair is cut an even, short length (usually
around 1/4 inch or less) all over. Outside the U.S., this cut
is generally called a crewcut. Within the U.S., a butch would
be usually considered as shorter than a crewcut. The butch is
distinguished from a classic American crewcut by its even length
all over (where an American crewcut has a little extra length
at the front of the head).
buzzcut
- a short cut (like the butch cut described above). The name comes
from the sound of the electric clippers used for the cut. A buzzcut
may typically range from 1/4 of an inch down to stubble (that
is cut without a guard on the clippers).
Caesar
cut - a moderately short cut worn in the style of Julius Caesar.
The hair is layered to around 1 to 2 inches all over. The hair
is brushed forward to a short bang or fringe at the front.
clipper
blades and attachments - electric clippers are used to cut
hair short. If used directly on the head without an attachment
guard, they will shave the hair from the head, leaving a very
short stubble. Some clippers use a series of different plastic
guards over the cutting blades to adjust the length of hair, while
others have different length attachable blades. These clipper
attachments (either guards or blades) are used to provide a uniform
length of hair to be left. Barbers use both adjustable attachments
and standard attachments. Clippers made by Wahl use attachment
numbers to indicate the length of hair that will be left. Here
are some examples of attachments used by some popular clipper
manufacturers.
Andis.
- 0000
- 0.1mm (1/250 inch)
- 000
- 0.2mm (1/125 inch)
- 1
- 3.0mm (1/8 inch)
- 1.5
- 4.0mm (5/32 inch) separate regular and texturizing blades
available
- 2
- 5.0mm (1/5 inch)
- 7
- 4.0mm (5/32 inch)
- 5
- 5.0mm (1/5 inch)
- 3.5
- 9.0mm (1/3 inch)
Oster.
Oster clippers are often used in military barber shops (they are
powered by a motor instead of an electric vibrating device and
tend to stay cooler during heavy use). Blades used on Oster clippers
include:
- 00000
- 1/125 inch
- 0000
- 1/100 inch,
- 000
- 1/50 inch,
- 0A
- 3/64 inch,
- 1
- 3/32 inch,
- 1A
- 1/8 inch,
- 1-1/2
- 5/32 inch,
- 2
- 1/4 inch,
- 3-1/2
- 3/8 inch
Wahl.
- #0
(no attachment) - 1/100 inch,
- #1
- 1/8 inch,
- #2
- 1/4 inch,
- #3
- 3/8 inch,
- #4
- 1/2 inch,
- #5
and #6 - special tapering attachments
- #7
- 7/8 inch, and
- #8
- 1 inch.
(References:
Wahl numbers quoted from Hairnet hotline board message by Glenn.)
The
advantage of using clippers is that they cut hair to an even short
length quickly and easily. Some people say that only scissors
can be used to cut hair short without exposing the skin underneath.
This would only apply to moderately short haircuts, as with very
short cuts, the aim is to expose some skin. Another disadvantage
of the clippers is that because they are so quick and easy, the
chance of mistakes is higher (for example by attaching the wrong
attachment or by mis-cutting when tapering without an attachment
- we've all heard barber school disaster stories). For this reason,
you want a professional who is experienced with clippers. This
is another reason to use an experienced barber for short hair.
college
cut - this cut is similar to an ivy league. The back is clipper
cut short all the way past the crown with the length increasing
until the bangs form anywhere from one to three inches in front.
Bangs may be left straight down or brushed to the side. (Contributed
by a Buzztown reader.)
crewcut
- outside the United States, the term crewcut has a much narrower
meaning than inside the U.S. The non-U.S. definition is a cut
that is short all over (about 1/4 inch), perhaps tapered a little
at the back and sides. Inside the U.S. Within the U.S., crewcut
is used more broadly to refer to a range of short haircuts. In
general the U.S. definition refers to a cut that is tapered at
the back and sides but may be up to one inch on top.
dipped
mushroom cut or dipped bowl cut - this is like a regular bowl
cut, however, the back follows the curvature around the ears and
"dips" at least one to two inches lower at the back
or the head. This prevents the bowl cut from having a look much
like the side view of a "cupcake" when the bowl is cut
too high. (Contributed by a Buzztown reader.)
fade
(or temple fade) - a short tapered cut. The hair at the back
and sides is tapered from zero length lower down up to around
half an inch. The hair may be short or longer over the crown of
the head. On top, the hair is longer (up to 2 to 3 inches) and
may be layered.
flattop
- a range of styles in which the hair is cut so that the top of
the hair is cut into a flat surface. This style can have a range
of lengths. Depending upon the length of the cut and the hair
type, gel or pomade will be required to hold the hair in place.
The longer the hair on top, the greater the effort required to
style it. The cut gives a flat top surface on the round shape
of the head. This means that the hair at the front central area
of the head is cut shorter than the hair at the front and around
the top sides of the head. Because of this, a short flattop will
allow the scalp at the front central area of the head to be visible.
This is known as a landing strip. If the hair is left longer
on top, the front and upper sides will require more styling (such
as blow-drying and either gel or pomade) to hold it place. The
sides of a flattop are generally cut very short (although some
variations of the cut can have the hair at the sides much longer
than on top and slicked down). Another variation of the flat top
is to have the back and sides shaved completed clean (with lather
and a razor). This variation is known as white walls.
French
crop - similar to a Caeser, but feathered at the front.
fringe
- see bang above.
high
and tight - a standard cut in the United States Marine Corps,
a high and tight comprises cut to a stubble at the back and sides
(using clippers with no guard comb attached) and short (around
1/4 inch) all over on top. Alternatively, the top may be cut into
a short flattop. The back and sides may also be clean shaved using
lather and a razor.
high
and tight recon - a shorter version of the regular high and
tight. The hair is cut higher on the side, tapered very closely
on top with a runway in the middle going all the way to the back
like a horseshoe. It resembles a Mohawk. Recon-Marines are famous
for this haircut.
Thanks
to the Leatherneck Barber Shop in Brownsville, TX for this definition.
horseshoe
flattop - an extremely short version of the flattop cut. This
cut gets its name because the only hair left on the head is a
"horseshoe" shape ring of hair around the upper sides
and across the front. The "landing strip" area is bigger
than in regular flattops and the unguarded clippers are taken
over the crown of the head. One contributor to this website provided
some more information about this cut, also calling it a "TH
flattop". This is described as a flattop cut with a TH clipper.
The TH clipper is a type of clipper that will cut hair even closer
than the 000 Wahl or 0 Oster clipper and is almost as short as
an electric shaver.
The
horseshoe flattop is also sometimes known as a "burr with
bumper". The cut is basically 1/4" (no more than 3/8")
butch waxed in front and an 1/8" along the sides of the "flat"
- it's as short as you'll get before going to the full burr or
induction cut. It was popular among career Marines in the 1960's.
Unlike most other flattops, this cut can work well with fine or
thinning hair (or at least some types hair thinning patterns).
(Thanks to Gunny for contributing this information.)
induction
cut (or burr cut) - the cut given to male recruits when they
enter the United States armed services. Generally, the cut is
made with electric clippers with no guard comb attached. This
just leaves an even length stubble across the head. The armed
services of other countries vary in their haircuts regulations
for both new recruits and trained soldiers.
ivy
league - cut short and tapered at the back and sides and cut
close (about 1/4 inch) across the crown of the head, but getting
a little longer (up to 1.5 inches) at the front of the head. Basically
this is a standard crew cut, but cut longer at the front of the
head. The hair at the front may be brushed up (using gel or pomade),
brushed down or parted. It provides a little more flexibility
in terms of styling while still having a crisp "buzzed"
appearance.
landing
strip - the patch of scalp that can been seen in the flat
area of a very short flattop haircut (see the flattop definition,
above).
layer
cut - the style of having hair cut so that hair on different
parts of the head is approximately the same length (instead of
being cut longer in the centre and shorter around the edges).
This cut contrasts from tapered cuts and bowl cuts.
low
and tight - similar to the high and tight described
above, except instead of having the sides and back completely
clipped to the skin, the hair is only completely buzzed to about
half way up the head. The higher side and back hair is clipped
fairly short, but not to the skin. The hair on top of the head
may be cut as a flattop or clipped short.
pompadour
(or pomp) - the style of wearing the hair brushed back off
the forehead. Typically a pompadour is not parted, but just brushed
straight up and back. The term pompadour is also a woman's hairstyle
again with the hair brushed back high from the forehead, into
a roll (much higher than for a man's pompadour). The term is named
after a woman (Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of France's Louis
XV). The pompadour is referred to (as a man's hairstyle) in John
Steinbeck's classic 1952 novel "East of Eden": He
was wearing a flat-topped, narrow-brimmed hat, very stylish, and
when he saw them he broke into a run and yanked off his hat and
they could see that this bright hair was clipped to a short brush
of a pompadour that stood straight up. (Chapter 49).
porky
cut - see induction cut above.
Princeton
cut - this is basically another name for an ivy league cut
(Princeton University being one of the eight Ivy League universities
in the United States).
pudding
basin haircut - another term for a bowl cut that is derived
from the history of the cut. This term is not a widely used term
these days. The following information about this style was provided
by a Buzztown reader.
Haircut
performed by placing a pudding basin over the head and cutting
off all the hair below the rim of the basin all the way around
the head.Commonly used for hundreds of years by poor and rural
families. Other names for this haircut are bowl cut, bowl crop,
basin cut and basin crop. The roundheads of English 17th Century
history got their name from this haircut.The apprentices rioting
in London wore their hair 'cut around the head' using a bowl
as a guide; hence the name roundhead. Two German names for this
haircut are Topfschnitt and Pottschnitt.
regulation
haircut - a very short tapered haircut. The back and sides
are cut very short and clipped to the scalp lower down at the
back and sides, tapered very short to the crown, with the top
cut just long enough to comb over. This is a broad term and you
may wish to provide more details of what you want to your barber.
In some shops, you might expect to have the hair clipped to the
scalp up to about an inch and a half or more above the hair line.
In other shops, less of the head may be clipped to the skin.
razor
cut - a technique of cutting hair using the blade of a razor
instead of scissors.
shaved
- the hair is cut completely to the sking using a razor (either
some form of blade razor or an electric razor). This should not
be confused with hair that is cut using clippers. A crewcut or
a buzzcut is not shaved. Too many people tell their barbers that
they want part or all of their head shaved, when they actually
want a tapered cut or some other clipper cut.
short
back and sides - a widely-used term used in Australia and
New Zealand (especially before the 1970s) to describe a short
tapered cut. A barber in New Zealand provided the following information
about the term "short back and sides":
Before
the 1970's the most common haircut given in New Zealand was
the "short back and sides" which is 1/8th inch on
the back and sides (tapered 'round the edge) and reasonably
short on top regardless of whether it is brushed back, flat
top, side part, center part, or whatever. A male (regardless
of age) would religiously get his hair cut every 2 - 3 weeks
without fail and accordingly all that was needed on the top
was a trim. A New Zealand written song uses as part of it's
lyrics referring to the New Zealand male's haircut "a
bit off the top and short back and sides".
square
back - the hair at the back is cut at the bottom as a defined
straight line. The hair is left full and is not tapered at the
back or the sides. A square back can be used with a range of styles,
including a crewcut, an ivy league or college cut or a flattop.
taper
- the style of having the hair cut getting progressively shorter
lower down towards the nape of the head. This is generally done
with electric clippers and gives a crisper, freshly cut look.
The degree of tapering can range from a slight taper to a style
in which the hair around the nape and around the ears is completely
shaven.
teddy
boy cut - a style worn by mods in England during the late
1950s and early 1960s. Typically the hair was cut relatively long (for
the time), brushed back, and heavily greased. To read more about
mods, teddy boys, including hairstyle information, read the article
"Mod. The
Life and How to Live It", which is part of an English
website.
temple
fade - see fade above.
TH
flattop and TH clipper - see horseshoe flattop
above.
thinning
shears - scissors that are used to thin hair out. Instead
of having two flat blades, like regular scissors, thinning shears
have matching sets of "teeth" with gaps between them.
When used to cut hair, some of the hair gets between the teeth
of the shears and is cut, but most of the hair falls in the gaps
between the teeth and is not cut. This allows some of the hairs
to be cut short and other hairs to remain at the full length of
the style. With some of the hairs cut short, this thins out the
hair.
under
cut - this cut is much like a bowl cut except the ridge of
the bowl is not where the cuttings ends. The ridge of the bowl
is lifted so the hair is clipper cut further up the side of the
head an additional one to two inches. This allows the head to
be shaken and the bowl look will always return to its regular
shape. The sides may either be "white-walled" or cut
to 1/8" length. The bottom of the back may be either faded
or square cut. (Contributed by a Buzztown reader.)
wedge
cut - similar to a bowl cut, except that the hair below the
weight line is tapered instead of all being cut to the one length.
The taper may be quite gradual and may not be very short or clean
cut. In fact, the hair may even cover the top of the ears. This
is not really a barber shop cut and may be worn by men or women.
whiffle
cut - see induction cut above.
white
walls - a flattop haircut in which the back and sides of the
head are shaved clean using lather and a razor (see the flattop
definition above).
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